Joanna Bogle | Tuesday, 8 May 2007
Are glamour and style too much to ask for?
Why are those bright young things walking about in dreary, uniform black trousers?
It struck me with force as I stood at a London railway station looking at the crowd on the platform opposite: the uniform. No, not the railway staff – the passengers. Practically every single person was wearing tightly-fitting black or blue casual trousers. A few men – very few, about six or seven out of a couple of hundred people, I would say – were in suits. Three or four women wore skirts. But everyone else was in the standard uniform.
What has happened to us? Anyone arriving from the Britain of fifty years ago would think we had been invaded by a conquering army and forbidden from dressing attractively. Girls don’t even refer to shirts or blouses any more – everything is just a “top”. And, of course, often not very much of a top – the correct form for today is that it shouldn’t meet the trousers and there must be a bulge of flesh in between. For the seriously fashionable, the bulge should include a nasty glimpse of inadequate underwear, and of the body beneath.
No, this isn’t a gripe against the young. I’m middle-aged and my generation is just as bad, too. Ugly track-suit trousers, lycra stretching over vast behinds, rolls of fat emerging from tight-fitting “tops” that cut into fleshy shoulders: ugh.
Anyone arriving from the Britain of fifty years ago would think we had been invaded by a conquering army and forbidden from dressing attractively.
Some women do wear jackets skirts for work. But – in London and elsewhere – this outfit is often donned at the office and discarded at the end of the working day in favour of the regulation black or blue jeans and loose top for the journey home. Men, too, usually keep their office suits in a cupboard at work and do not subject them to public view beyond the office walls.
This uniformity is partly, alas, a matter of fear. We are routinely warned not to wear jewelry that might be a temptation to a thief and, by extension, we have all developed a fear of looking too “posh”, too middle-class, too likely to have a briefcase or handbag containing something valuable.
Will we ever be able to dress pleasantly again? Summer dresses in pastel shades or with stripes or even the occasional flower motif? Pink or cream or some other-coloured blouses – with collars, even cuffs, and set off by a pretty scarf? Skirts: pleated, wrap-around, layered gypsy-style, A-line, or gored? Is all this too much to ask?
We do seem to be allowed to dress up for a limited – very limited – number of formal occasions. These include weddings and perhaps first Communions (but not necessarily christenings, and only to a limited extent funerals), grand charity functions, certain race-meetings, and lavish birthday celebrations.
For these occasions we are expected to buy something that we will rarely, and perhaps never, wear again. It’s too ludicrous. And while on the subject of weddings, I feel sad for brides who buy a fabulously expensive dress and can then never wear it again, as there are no formal dances or parties that are grand enough. When I married it wasn’t exactly in Queen Victoria’s day (it was 1980, to be exact) and my lovely Laura-Ashley-style white dress with a deep ruffle round the hem and a satin ribbon sash came in very handy for several dances over the next couple of years. Before that, I’d been twirling around joyously at parties in a succession of very delightful dresses made by my mother on the family sewing-machine and modeled on those we’d seen in some of the grander London shops. They were ideal for 21st birthjday celebrations, and for trendy summer barbeques where below the dress one had bare feet, in one’s hand a large shady hat and somewhere there was Simon-and-Garfunkel music…
Can we do anything to revive a sense of beauty in fashion? One might make a start in hot weather. Ladies of all ages: please, no tight, hot, uncomfortable, black trousers, no rolls of unsightly flesh, no bulging out of inadequate clothing. Let’s have a range of attractive colours, swinging skirts, a variety of blouses. Let’s re-introduce that vanished garment, the summer dress: cool and elegant, or bright and swishy, or plain and enlivened with something snazzy by way of belt and scarf.
There are some good things around. A teenage niece looked great in something called a “handkerchief skirt” – difficult to describe, but calf-length and designed with different shapes of material all fitted together and making a very attractive whole. At recent weddings, I have seen some delightful bridesmaids’ dresses – with delighted girls wearing them. I think the current fad for little clip-on hats, vaguely reminiscent of the 1940s, with a bit of net and ribbon, and a flower or feather or two, and something sparkly, is huge fun. And there are some nice summer things emerging on one or two fashion pages – soft, cottony, swishy, glamorous – more, please.
But my main plea is for everyday wear. Can we get rid of those dreary, uniform black trousers? And can the new generation of bright young things rediscover the importance of beauty, not just for special occasions, but in our everyday clothes and the way we wear them?
Joanna Bogle writes from London.
Comments (10)
Lyon said...We need trend setters to give ideas to young people these days. Aside from having creative designers with good taste, we need icons to wear them. I bet if Britney Spears wears elegant, more feminine clothes, many girls will follow.
This is the crisis we face today. We need to discover exemplary icons.
-- | Tuesday, 8 May 2007 at 12:33 pm
Andrew said...I agree with Lyon, we need icons - celebrities - to usher in the new trend of good-taste fashion.
Philippines | Tuesday, 8 May 2007 at 1:50 pm
Michelle Martin said...We really need the retailers onside with this. I can’t begin to tell you how difficult it has become to outfit me and my children (esp. my daughters) nicely. I’ve been a mother of ten for 19 years now, and I’ve seen a lot of trends come and go, but it truly used to be much less time consuming and much less expensive. When one is on a tight budget and shopping is confined to the clearance racks at the mall (second-hand and consignment shops don’t always have what I specifically need), it really is tough. I’ve given many an entire Saturday up to finding a suitable outfit for someone for this or that occasion.
I think many an unattractive outfit is the result of someone simply giving up-- running out of time and money.
Canada | Tuesday, 8 May 2007 at 10:35 pm
Mary Sheehan Warren said...Oh my! What a dreary description! I can, very unfortunately, believe it though. Large cities tend to reflect the gray and rush of life in its fashion.
I don’t see that around me, however. I am in a midsize (and miswestern) American city, and I see a gorgeous array of embellished skirts, bandanna tops, embroidered jackets, print dresses, and the like. It could be that we are awaiting spring with every fiber of our beings (I live in a very cold climate), and so I wouldn’t be saying such things in January. (Black parkas rule those days.)
I would just like to say “Bravo!” to all those wonderful retailers who satisfy a real woman’s desire to dress beautifully. They are out there. It just might be that to find them, you’ll have to look toward the sunshine.
Oh please, Joanna, please look beyond the subway platform! There are probably legions of suburban mothers and “country” girls who should be the leaders in fashion, but you can take that role by sporting your gorgeous, colorful self at that platform, just daring the others to look in your direction for inspiration!
Admittedly, fashion is in my bloodstream (I am a fashion consultant). I watch these things closely and point women in the direction of the good (rather than the bad and the ugly). You can do the same.
Mary Sheehan Warren
United States | Wednesday, 9 May 2007 at 11:31 pm
bestrel said...In order to face this crisis, we need to have eyes to recognize exemplary icons. Eyes that see beyond the passion for fashion.
This job is done at home - by fathers and mothers - who educate their children and teach them how to use their senses properly.
To build a house is a tough task, yet to build a home is even a tougher one.
Philippines | Friday, 11 May 2007 at 4:51 pm
bewaechterin said...Ridiculous! Wear whatever you want and please do not cry out for “feminine” clothing in others!!! What I wear as a female is by definition feminine. It’s my choice to wear what I please, and thank my lucky stars I am not in a backwards fundamentalist religious country that devises and enforces dress codes, as well as other strictures, upon women.
Dresses encumber movement, as do other “fashionable” items such as stilleto heels. Pants, shorts, and the like, and running shoes or loafers are logical clothing selections: they do not restrict movement, nor do they cause a health hazard (i.e., slip/trip/fall, or simply twist an ankle).
bewaechterin
United States | Saturday, 19 May 2007 at 2:44 am
KTR said...While I think the black pant is a necessary staple, I think I fall back on that too easily. But… there is a group of young women in NY that are trying to create a forum for young women to discuss true beauty and what it means to be feminine and fashionable at once. They’ve got a great blog (http://www.nyfashionforum.blogspot.com) and hold monthly meetings during the school year.
United States | Saturday, 2 June 2007 at 7:31 am
zvbxrpl said...I was practically the only person at my boarding school who did not own a pair of blue jeans and was ribbed mercilessly about it. I just never particularly liked jeans but the pressure to conform was enormous. bewaechterin, you have missed the whole point of this article! There is no need for any fundamentalist to enforce a dress code in the UK. We are perfectly capable of doing it ourselves.
United Kingdom | Sunday, 3 June 2007 at 7:52 am
zvbxrpl said...P.S. Incidentally, Joanna, I think Mercatornet’s subs have misinterpreted your article. You are complaining about the current fad for dressing down in which people predominantly blue and black jeans. But the byline and picture suggst that it’s formal business suits with black trousers that are the problem.
United Kingdom | Sunday, 3 June 2007 at 7:56 am
liz said...hi
I liked that post I followed a link to this site (but not this page) from LAF.
Upon reading the first 2 comments I just thought something that was worth pointing out.
Lyon and Andrew metioned that celebrities should be giving us an idea of how to dress. to that I say both yes and no. It is true that celebrities should have more respect for other people in the way they dress (allthough I dont want to sound to damning). But I beleive that the women and men around us ...our friends, teachers, family members, community minded people and such are the ones that exert the greatet influence over our lives and the way we dress. allthough many people do copy celebs, I feel that it is mainly because they have been told that they should. You tend to copy the people around you, and if one person starts to copy a celeb then many other people will learn to look to them for inspiration. A lot more responsibility needs to be put on us, the public, to provide exellent role models amoung us that our young people can aspire to be like, can take tips from, and can respect.
thank-you
Liz
Australia | Saturday, 9 June 2007 at 10:29 pm
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